Knitting machine



.1935- w. 1.. HOUSEMAN 2,012,607

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Aug. 27, 1935. w. L. HOUSEMAN KNITTING MACHINE Original Filed Jan. 29,1931 8 Sheets-Sheet 3 Aug. 27, 1935. w. HOUSEMAN KNITTING MACHINEOriginal Filed Jan. 29, 1931 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 JITO'Z/YEVJ hwy 4 Aug. 27,1935. w. 1.. HOUSEMAN KNITTING MACHINE 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 Original FiledJan. 29, 1951 w i m 4 m w// w M m 1 m 2 W N/ 0 3 w 8 G W A E. 4 2 n z m.L. E a M 1m 2 um an n I w Q 2, I I Il 5 wa a Aug. 27, 1935.

w. L. HOUSEMAN KNITTING MACHINE Original Filed Jan. 29, 1931 8Sheets-Sheet 7 Patented -Aug. 27, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICEStandard-Trump Bros.

Machine Company,

Wilmington, Del., a corporation of Delaware Original application January29, 1931, Serial No.

511,949. Divided and this application September 12, 1931, Serial No.562,462

17 Claims.

This invention relates broadly to a knitted fabric and a method andmachine for producing the same. More specifically it relates to astocking embodying the fabric and a method and machine for making thestocking.

This application is a division of my application Serial Number 511,949,filed January 29, 1931 in which the fabric is claimed, the present caserelating to the method and machine.

Heretofore it has been found desirable for various reasons to producestockings of a type said to have a split foot in which the instep, beingvisible when low shoes are worn, is composed of suitable yarn or yarnsgenerally similar to those used for the leg portion of the stocking,while the sole is composed of different yarn, sometimes undyed to caterto certain hygienic ideas, but in general of heavier or strongercharacter to better withstand wear. Such stockings generally alsoinvolve a split fabric above the heel, in which the rear of the legabove the heel is composed of wear resisting yarn where a low shoe wouldtend to destroy the fabric, this arrangement involving the so-calledhigh splice.

The machines heretofore used to produce such stockings involve twofeeds, generally designated the sole and instep feeds in view of theirparticular functions, each of the feeds being associated w th the usualknitting cams, etc. In such machines the upper leg is knit from a yarnat the main feed, but the lower leg, at the high splice, and the instepare knit from a similar yarn at the instep feed. Desirably. of course,the same appearance should be maintained continuously from the leg intothe instep but since two yarn supplies are neces arily used, and color,weight and texture are rarely duplicated to such degree that differencesescape notice, there is almost always a noticeable line of demarcationat the place where change from one yarn to the other occurs. Besidesthis, the change is further made noticeable by any slight variations insizes of loops occurring because of varying tensions, differentadjustments of cams, etc. Obviously, this change of feeds also makes itdiflicult if not impossible to continue a design fromthe leg into theinstep.

One of-the primary objects of the present invsnticn relates to theprovision of a fabric or vide a method and machine'for producing theseresults.

Another object relates to the provision of a fabric having designsformed therein during reciprocatory knitting, and, specifically, duringboth rotary and reciprocatory knitting.

The broad objects concerning the method and machine relate to theprovision of these to pro duce the fabric of the type just outlined.Particularly it is the broad object to provide a method and machinewhereby knitting continues at the same feed through the upper leg andthe instep, specifically with the production of an uninterrupted design.

It is another object of the invention to provide a method and machine inwhich, in the formation of a split foot stocking, knitting is begun atone feed and finished at the other feed to avoid undesirable overlappingbetween yarns at the two feeds.

Further specific objects relating to the machine are the provision ofmeans for controlling needles for the production of designs, of meansfor controlling the parts to properly adjust and balance the stitchesfor both varying yarns and reciprocation, etc.

The accomplishment of these and other objects will be apparent from thefollowing description read in conjunction with the accompanying drawingsin which: 3

- Fig. 1 is a plan view of that portion of a circular knitting machineof well known type which is particularly modified in accordance with theinvention;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same;

Fig. 3 is an elevation ofa stocking embodying the features of theinvention;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the cams and other elements acting upon thebutts of the needles;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the active parts of the same elements showingtheir cooperation with needles during one of the reciprocatory periods;

Fig. 6 is a sectional plan view showing particularly the arrangementsfor controlling the needle cams;

Fig. '7 is an inside development of the knitting cams and associatedelements;

Fig. 8 is a vertical sectional view taken approximately on the planeindicated by line 88 in Fig.

Fig. 9 is a vertical sectional view taken approxi-' mately on the planeindicated by line 9-9 in Fi 1;

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary sectional view showing the assembly of a. trickwheel;

Fig. 11 is a plan view with parts broken away showing the needlecylinder adjusting means;

Fig. 12 is an elevation, partly in vertical section, of the same means;

Fig. 13 is a horizontal sectional view showing the adjusting means forthe cams at the instep feed;

Fig. 14 is a side elevation, partly broken away, further showing thesame;

Fig. 15 is a vertical section taken approximately on the plane indicatedby line I-I5 in Fig. 13; and

Fig. 16 is a diagram illustrating the various events in a cycle ofoperation.

The illustrated machine is of the'rotary needlestationary cam typehaving independently movable latch needles. The needle cylinder 2 iscarried by the ring gear 4 adapted to be rotated and oscillated throughthe usual clutch connections, one of the intermediate driving gearsbeing illustrated at 6 in Fig. 1. The present machine differs from theordinary type in that, instead of being axially fixed, the ring gear 4and needle cylinder are adapted to be moved axially. This is effected bythe mounting of the ring gear in an annular non-rotating member 8mounted for sliding movement in the frame of the machine in thedirection of the axis of rotation of the needle cylinder, movementthereof being effected through the medium of plungers Ill passingthrough holes in the frame and a supporting ring I 2 secured to theframe. The plungers rest upon a yoke lever I4 pivoted to ring I2 andhaving an extension I6 engageable by an adjusting screw I8 carried by alever 20 pivoted to a bracket 22 forming part of ring I2. An adjustablescrew 24 limits downward movement of lever I4.- Adjustable cam followingscrews 26 are acted upon by cams 28 carried by the main cam disc 30,whereby lever I6 may be raised and the needle cylinder lifted by theaction of plungers I0.

A sinker dial 32 mounts the sinkers 34 for radial movements under theaction of the usual sinker cams 36 so that they properly cooperate withthe needles, generally designated as 38, in the formation of stitches.As is usual, the sinker cams are mounted so as to have slightreciprocatory movements during reciprocation of the needle cylinder sothat the sinkers cooperate properly with the needles when moving ineither direction. A slotted jack dial 40 rotates with the needlecylinder and slidably supports jacks 42 arranged to engage and actuatepressers 44 located in the needle slots and adapted to deflect the hookends of the needles. This arrangement in which pressers and jacks may besupplied to cooperate with all or certain selected needles is similar tothat shown in the patent to Harold E. Houseman, No. 1,779,237, datedOctober 21, 1930. The actuating means for the jacks in the present casediffer from that illustrated in this patent and will be hereafterdescribed.

The needles, heretofore generally designated as 38, are of three typesas illustrated in Fig. 5, namely, long butt needles 46. intermediatebutt needles 48. and short butt needles 5!]. There are two intermediatebutt needles 48 located diametrically oppositeeach other and adapted toact as suture needles. On one side of the diameter defined by the sutureneedles are the long butt needles 46 adapted to form the instep of thehosiery, and on the other side are the short butt needles 53 adapted toform the sole.

In the present machine there are two feed and stitch forming pointsdesignated generally by the numerals 52 and 53 respectively in thedeveloped interior view of the cams, Fig. 7. These points will bedesignated as the instep and sole feeds, respectively. As shown in Figs.1, 4, and 6, these feeds are angularly spaced 112.5 apart, the direction of rotation of the needle cylinder during rotary knitting beingcounterclockwise as viewed in plan.

' Referring particularly to Fig. 7, the cams at the instep feed comprisethe upper center cam 54, the lower center cam 56, end cams 58 and 60.stitch cams 62 and 64, and deflector cams 66 and 68. Similarly the camsat the sole feed comprise the upper center cam I0, the lower center camI2, end cams 14 and I6, stitch .cams I8 and 80, and a guard cam 8|.Raising pickers 82 and 84 of the usual type are associated with the solefeed only. A lowering picker 88 of the usual form is provided, beinglocated diametrically opposite the sole feed. A switch cam 86 mounted ona pivoted shaft and urged by a spring 81 to the position illustrated inFig. 7, is designed to engage only the long butt needles to elevate themwhen they move in one direction and yield upwardly against the action ofspring 61 when they move in the opposite direction to allow them topass. A main switch cam 90, the operation of which will be later pointedout, is also provided, being positioned as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 7.

Cams 62 and 66 are carried by a radially reciprocable slide 92 and cams64 and 68 are carried by a similar slide 94. These slides are providedrespectively with adjustable screws 96 and 98 adapted to be engagedunder the tensions of springs IDI and I03 with upwardly projecting earsI00 and I62 formed on a yoke I04, (Fig. 8), pivoted to the frame andoscillatable, under the action of a plunger I06 when lifted by cams I08on the main cam disc 30, to simultaneously retract the two slides. Thetwo slides may be sepa rately washered up to balance the stitches formedduring reciprocation.

The slides 92 and 94 are mounted in a segmental cam carrying member I I6which also forms the support for the fixed cams 54, 56, 58 and 60 at theinstep feed. As shown in Figs. 13, 14 and 15, member III] has journalledtherein elements II 2 threaded at their lower ends and fixedly carryingpinions II4 which, acting together with the heads of the elements,prevents relative axial movements between the elements and member. Thepinions I I4 mesh with teeth on an arcuate rack bar II6 which isconstrained to arcuatc movement about the center line of the needlecylinder by pins II8 extending through slots therein and carried bybrackets I34 fixed to the non-rotating member 8, which, as brought outpreviously moves vertically with the needle cylinder. A forked end I20of rack bar II6 embraces the upper end of an upstanding arm of a leverI22 pivoted to the frame at I24. A spring I26 urges the lever to alimiting position defined by an adjustable screw I 28, the lever beingrocked at proper times against the action of the spring by engagement ofa follower screw I30 carried thereby with cams I32 on the main cam disc.The elements II 2 are threaded into tapped holes in brackets I34 andaccordingly rocking movements imparted to lever I22 will causesimultaneous upward and downward movements of the cams at the instepfeed relative to the cams at the sole feed, initial adjustment beingreadily effected by screw I26, and the amount of movement by a cam I32being adjusted by screw I39. The arrangement is such that action of acam I32 produces downward movement of the knitting cams. It

may be pointed out that H is carried by memher 8 so that, in the absenceof action by cam I32, the cams associated with IIII move with the needlecylinder in its axial movements.

The main switch cam 90 is carried by a shaft I36 to which is aflixed apin I38 projecting into an oblique slot I40 in the fixed supportingsleeve. An arm I42 carried'by the shaft I36 is urged downwardly by aspring I43 and is arranged to be engaged by a cam element I44 carried bya rocker I46 pivoted at I48 to the frame and having a downward extensionI53 carrying a cam follower I52 engageable by cams I54 on the main camdisc, (Fig. 9). A spring I56 normally urges the follower in a directionto contact with the cams. The pin and slot connection causes the switchcam to ride away from the cylinder when lowered so that only long buttneedles are engaged. On the other hand, when it is in raised position,it engages all of the butts regardless of length to lower the needles.

A second cam element I58 is adapted to rock the lever I60 which isoperative when so acted upon to lower the picker 88 to an inoperativeposition between the levels occupied by the butts of active and inactiveneedles as they reach its location.

Cam 18 is carried by a radially movable slide I62 carrying an adjustablefollower screw IE4 urged by a spring I66 into contact with a lever I68arranged to be rocked to move the slide outwardly by a plunger I16 actedupon by a cam I on the main cam disc. Similarly cam 88 is carried by aslide I12 carrying an adjustable follower screw I14 urged by a springI16 into contact with a lever I18 arranged to be rocked to move theslide outwardly by a plunger I80 acted upon by a cam I8I on the main camdisc. It is accordingly to be noted that the cams 18 and 88 areindependently movable as contrasted with the corresponding cams at theinstep feed. The cam cylinder at the sole feed is centrally split asshown in Figs. 4 and 7 so that the sections may be separately washeredup to balance the stitches.

At the instep feed are several yarn feeding fingers I82, in the presentinstance five, one of which may carry the main or body yarn. another theyarn used to form the extended top, and the others the yarns forstriping and plating. In the case of plating. one or more fingers maycarry a plurality of yarns. Similarly, at the other feed there may be aplurality of fingers I 84; for example, one of them may carry the yarnforming the high splice above the heel, another the heel and toe yarn,and a third one the sole yarn. Any of thse fingers I84 may carry aplurality of yarns for the production of plating; a plated high splicebeing particularly frequently desirable. A fancy high splice may beformed by feeding both body and plating yarns through the first of thefingers. The means for changing yarns at the feeds is preferably of thetype illustrated in the patent to Harold E. Houseman, No. 1,161,677,dated November 23, 1915. The means for producing striping at the instepfeed may be similar to that shown in the patent to Harold E. Houseman,No. 1,769,580, dated July 1, 1930.

As is usual, one of the driving gears 6 is formed with a cam groove I88adapted to produce oscillation of a lever I96 which carries a pivotedpawl whiclrengages a ratchet wheel I92 carried by a pattern chain drumI94 to produce intermittent movements of the latter. The drum in thiscase carries two chains I96 provided with lugs I98 at lugs thereof candrop into the depressions.

properly spaced intervals. The lugs on one chain are adapted to engage alever 2 66 pivoted to the frame on a pin 262 and urged against a stop204 by a spring 286. This lever has a lateral ex tension 201 on which ispivoted a pawl 2B8 engageable with teeth 2I8 of a ratchet wheel securedto a trick wheel 2 I2. As shown in Fig. 10, the trick wheel H2 isaxially slotted to receive tricks 2I4 having butts broken out in theusual fashion to determine the production of patterns. These tricks aremaintained in position by an interengagin arrangement at their lowerends and a spring band 2 I6.

A second lever 2I8, also pivoted on pin 202 is arranged for engagementby the lugs on the inner chain, its movement being limited by anadjustable stop 22!]. An adjustable screw 222 is carried by a lever 224,pivoted to the frame at 225, so as to be engaged and lifted by the lever2I8 when it is raised by a lug on the chain. The lever 224 carries aroller 226 which, during oscillation of the lever, engages a cam member228 carried by a lever 229 to thereby impart reciprocating movements toa link 230 pivoted at one end to the lever 229 and at its other end to alever 232 carrying a pawl 234 engaging a ratchet wheel secured to atrick wheel 238 corresponding to trick wheel 2I2. A spring 236 serves toreturn the various connected elements.

The two trick wheels cooperate with identically corresponding elementsso that only those associated with the trick wheel 2| 2 will bedescribed. A number of levers 248, one corresponding to each height ofbutts of the tricks, are pivoted about a common upright pin and areadapted to be rocked by engagements of their outer ends by the trickbutts. These levers engage corresponding cam levers 242 having elongated248 has a lug engageable with an edge portion 241 of a correspondinglever 242 and capable of dropping into a depression 25I therein when thelever is rocked by the action of a butt. The edge portions 241 areparallel or concentric with the portions of the opposite edges of thelevers which engage the adjustable stops so that movements of the levers242 do not affect cams 248 until the The springs 246 not only serve topull the levers rearwardly but also serve to swing them about pin 243until they engage a pin 250 of semicircular cross-section, this positionbeing assumed when there is no butt engaging a lever 240. Under theseconditions the cams are forced inwardly to cause deflection of theneedles. If, however, a butt engages a lever 246, the lever 242corresponding thereto will be moved to a position such that the lug ofthe corresponding cam may drop into depression 251. The cam will thennot be backed up'so as to cause deflection of the needle. The operationis somewhat similar to that occurring in the machine illustrated in thepatent to Harold E. Houseman No. 1,779,237, dated October 21, 1930.

The semicircular pin 250 is arranged to be rocked about its axis by anextension 252 of a lever 254 pivoted to the frame and provided with anadjustable follower screw 25S engageable by cams 258 on the main disc.When the pin 250 is rocked by a cam 258, it moves all of levers 242 thesame as they would be moved by butts on the tricks. Accordingly, thefingers 248 are rendered inoperative to deflect the needles irrespectiveof the movements of the trick wheel. The necessity of this action willbe hereafter pointed out. Corresponding to lever 254 is a lever 260which, when acted upon by either of two cams 262, serves to produce acorresponding action on the opposite side of the machine.

The outer chain I88 carries a pin 266 arranged to cooperate with amember 268 carried by lever 210 which has a cam following end 212adapted to cooperate with a suitable cam on the disc 30. A pawl 274,pivoted to the lever 270, and having its 'motion under the action of aspring 218 limited by an adjustable screw 216, is adapted to impartmovement to the ratchet wheel 92. The lever 270 carries a guard (notshown) which acts to raise the pawl carried by the lever I90 so that itwill be inoperative at predetermined times to advance the patternchains. This mechanism is of the type fully described in the patent ofHarold E. Houseman, No. 1,805,697, dated May 19, 1931, and is operativeto insure the proper beginning of the pattern producing cycle ofoperation at the initiation of the knitting of each stocking.

The various elements of the machine and their relative relationshipshaving been described, there will now be taken up the operation of themachine in the production of a stocking.

A stocking typical of those which the machine is adapted to produce isillustrated in Fig. 3. This stocking comprises a ribbed top a, producedas usual on a rib machine and transferred to the needles of the plainfabric machine, an extended top b, which may be omitted, consisting ofseveral circularly knit courses, the leg c circularly knitted and in thepresent instance composed of fancy fabric which extends continuouslyinto the instep and the upper part of the foot as indicated at e and h,the high splice d, the heel f, the split sole 9, the advanced toe i,which may be omitted, if desired, consisting of several circularly knitcourses, the toe k, and loopers rounds I. The composition of these partsof the stocking and their production will be clear after the descriptionof the operation. The parts knitted at the sole feed, particularly thehigh splice, may be formed of a plurality of yarns in platedrelationship.

In Fig. 16 there are graphically illustrated the events occurring in theformation of a complete stocking, the operative or inoperativeconditions of various elements being plotted against'the sixteen periods(some of which are idle) defined by the sixteen steps of the main camdisc 30. The various periods are designated by the operations effectedtherein. The periods of rotation and reciprocation are designated at thebottom of the figure.

When the machine is in the stationary condition the needles are levelledto receive the rib top. At this time as indicated in the figure, fingersI82 and I84 are raised out of action, cams 62. 64, 66 and 68 and earns18 and are fully retracted to disengage all of the needle butts, switchcam is raised and in inner position and there is no cam I54 acting onfollower I52 and accordingly the switch cam occupies the position justnoted and the lowering picker 88 occupies its inoperative positionintermediate the levels assumed by the butts of raised'and loweredneedles during operation. The pickers 82 and 84 ride the butts. Thepattern chain is stationary, and controls254 and 260 are active toprevent any deflection of the needles.

Following the transfer of a rib top a to the needles, the machine isstarted to knit a few rounds of yarn similar to that in the rib top toform the portion b known as the extended top. Upon starting of themachine the cam disc 3|] is advanced one step. Cams 62, B4, 66 and 68are allowed to move inwardly in the usual fashion, first droppingagainst the short butts and then subsequently moving on into thecylinder as the long butt needles pass through. The yarn finger I82which carries the extended top yarn drops in advance of the first needleto knit which will be the advancing medium butt suture needle 48. Theswitch cam 90 is still raised so as not to affect the operation. The cam86 swings up during each revolution to allow long butt needles to pass,motion of the needles during revolution being fro right to left asviewed in Fig. 7.

At each of the feed points the sinkers are retracted and then advancedin a wave in the conventional manner even though the needle cams may notbe in operation. Accordingly, because of fabric tension, fabric loopswill sometimes tend to climb up the needles at the sole feed, where atthis time no knitting is taking place, in the space where the sinkersare retracted. If this were permitted, when the sinkers moved in theseloops would be above the nebs of the sinkers and out of control andwould not be moved below the latches at the instep feed, thereby failingto cast off.

In order to avoid this climbing of the loops at the idle sole feed, thestitch cam 80 is permitted to move in against the needle cylinder. Thisputs an upward wave in the needles before the sinkers are retracted.Accordingly, the loops occupy a lower position on the needles and whenthe needles are again lowered by the top center cam 18 the fabric loopsare drawn down against the stitch drawing edges of the sinkers, and thenebs are well above the loops as they move in.

Except for the parts mentioned, the positions held before starting aremaintained.

During this period, accordingly, several courses of plain fabric areknitted on all of the needles at the instep feed 52.

After the extended top is completed the cam disc is advanced anotherstep and rotary knitting of the upper leg starts. As the movement of thecam disc takes place, the extended top yarn finger is withdrawn andanother finger, or plurality of fingers, carrying yarns suitable for theleg, are dropped into action. Of course, if striping is to take place,the fingers originally dropped into action may be replaced by othersduring the formation of the leg in the usual manner, for example, by themechanism illustrated in the patent to Harold E. Houseman, No.1,769,580.

During this period the fingers I84 remain inactive, and the stitch camsat both feeds and switch cam 98 retain their previous positions.

Accordingly, stitches are formed solely at the instep feed.

In the present machine, in order to illustrate the mode of production offancy fabric, there is illustrated specifically an arrangement forproducing designs by reverse plating. However, from this it will beobvious that numerous other types of fancy eifects may be produced,utilizing the same general principles, for maintaining a design from theleg through the instep.

As pointed out above, two trick wheels, stepped around by means ofpattern chains control the production of reverse plating by deflectionof needles during the loop drawing periods. Referring to Figs. 1 and- 7,it will be clear that during rotary knitting, when the needle cylinderrotates in a counterclockwise direction, only the trickwheel 2I2, whichserves to determine the deflection of needles when acted upon by cam 62,need be operative. Accordingly, during rotary knitting of the leg thecontrol 254 must become inoperative to prevent defiec'lion of theneedles but control 268 remains operative to prevent deflection f theneedles at cam 64, the deflection of needles when not needed beingobjectionable.

While on the subject of the pattern mechanism,'it will be well to pointout the preferred set up of the trick wheels. Since the trick wheel 2I2is used for all of the courses during rotary knitting,.there must be acomplete trick pattern set up thereon. However, in the case of the trickwheel 238, which is effective only during reciprocation, the patternneed only be set up on tricks in every other slot corresponding to thecourses for which it is active, assuming, of course, that the trickwheels are stepped about at every revolution or reciprocation. Of coursethe stepping may be such that it would be necessary to supply the trickwheel 238 with a full set of tricks. In any case it would do no harm toso supply this trick Wheel. It is to be noted that during rotation or acounterclockwise reciprocation deflection of a needle at the time itrides over cam 84 would produce no effect, the same being true withrespect to needles acted upon by cam 62 during a clockwisereciprocation.

A reverse plated split foot fabric could be made with only a singletrick wheel associated with the rotary stitch cam 62 by setting up apattern with tricks in alternate courses. Reverse plating would thentake place only on alternate courses during rotary knitting and wouldcontinue on alternate courses during reciprocatory knitting. Thisproduces a pattern effect similar in appearance, though not inconstruction, to that described in my Patent No. 1,805,624. There willbe more fully discussed below a further possible mode of operationinvolving not only the utilization of a single trick wheel but alsoother modification of the mechanism.

Proceeding with the rotary knitting of the leg, the pattern chains,starting from an initial position determined by pin 266, etc., willaccordingly control trick wheel 2I2 with the resultant production of areverse plated pattern, deflection of needles at cam 64 being preferablyavoided by the continued activity of control 268.

In a split foot stocking it is customary to begin split work well abovethe heel so that a stronger wear resisting fabric may be made at theback above the heel. Split work commences with another step of the maincam disc, the rotation being changed to reciprocation, the range ofwhich is, in the present machine, 360. Inasmuch as the pattern is to becontinued as indicated at e, the same fingers I82 remain active. Thefinger I84 which carries the high splice yarn or yarns islowered intoaction. Cams 62, 68, 56 and 58 are now withdrawn part way so as to clearthe short butt needles but still engage the long and medium buttneedles. Cam 78 moves into action, joining cam 80 which is already inactive position. An intermediate length step of a cam I54 engagesfollower I52 so that switch cam 90 is lowered and simultaneously movedoutwardly so that it will engage and raise -long butt needles butmissshort and intermediate butt needles. The lowering picker 88, however,retains its inactive position since the cam I58 is so designed as notrocatory knitting the usual take up sweepsthrough which the yarns atboth feeds pass are rendered active.

The extreme position of the needle cylinder cates the needles inpositions approximately 180,

removed from those illustrated in Fig. 5. That is, the suture needles 48are adjacent the two switch cams, the long butt needles are locatedadjacent the sole feed 53, and the short butt needles adjacent theinstep feed 52.

Assuming first a counterclockwise reciprocation of the needle cylinderthe intermediate butt needle which leads the long butt needles rides upcam 64 and is depressed by center cam 54 and stitch cam 62 taking a yarnor yarns at the instep feed. It then rides up cam 58, passes switch cam90, by which it is not engaged, and follows the short buttneedles upover cam 80 and. below cams III and 18 taking the high splice yarn atthe sole feed and thereby forming a suture between the yarns at the twofeeds. The long butt needles follow this suture needle through thecamsat the instep feed and also take yarn there; However, the long buttsdo engage the switch cam 90 and are raised thereby so that they rideabove the cams at the sole feed 53.

The intermediate butt needle 48 which follows the long butt needles andprecedes the short butt needles starts from a position adjacent switchcam 90 and rides up the end of cam 80 until it engages the picker 84 bywhich it is raised whereupon it follows the long butt needles throughthe cams at 52 taking the main yarn or yarns there and finally reachinga. position adjacent switch cam 90 without being raised thereby. Theshort butt needles following this intermediate butt needle ride over cam88, beneath the picker 84, are moved downwardly by cams I0 and I8 totake the high splice yarn, pa'ss switch cam 86 without engagement andlikewise pass the partially retracted earns 64 and 62 withoutengagement. This partial retraction avoids the necessity of raising theshort butt needles thereabove.

In a clockwise reciprocation a reverse series of events occur, thepositions of the parts being illustrated in Fig. 5 for approximately 180of such reciprocation. In this case the switch cam 86 takes the place ofswitch cam .90 and likewise picker 82 lifts the medium butt needleleading the short butt needles.

From the above it will be seen that the yarn or yarns at the instep feedare knitted by the long butt needles and both of the medium butt needleson each reciprocation. The high splice yarn at the sole feed is knittedby the short butt needles and that medium butt needle which leads thelong butt needles in that stroke. It is to be observed that thisalternate suture operation of the medium butt needles forms asubstantial but non-bulky se'am by the avoidance of excessive yarns inthe loops thereof.

During the above, the alternate selection action of the two trick wheelsproceeds to produce the pattern. Since the patterning occurs at theinstep feed there is no break at the change from rotation toreciprocation. While short butt nee- I Alternate trick wheel actionproduces the reverse plating. However, the left trick wheel will bepressing back needles while the cylinder travels clockwise but noreverse plating is eifected thereby since the needles are not thenforming stitches at this point. This occurrence is illustrated in Fig. 5in which needles are shown deflected at both sets of cams 248.

When the knitting of the heel is to begin, the main cam disc is againgiven an intermediate movement, and the parts operate to produce theheel in substantially the conventional manner. At this time, in order toprevent interruption of the pattern, the pattern chain is stopped in theusual manner by the action of a suitable cam upon the lever 212. Bothcontrols 254 and 260 are rendered operative to prevent unnecessarydeflection of needles. Cams 62, 64, 66 and 68 are fully withdrawn andthe finger or fingers I82 previously active are raised, this raisingbeing at a point which will cause the yarn or yarns to knit last on themedium butt needle which is trailing behind the long butt'needles whenthe cylinder is traveling in a clockwise direction. These yarns may beclamped and cut, but are preferably allowed to float from this needle tothe raised yarn finger. Cams I8 and remain in action since the heel isto be knit at the sole feed. An intermediate portion of cam I54 stillengages follower I52 so that the lowering picker remains inactive.

The change to the heel yarn having been made at the sole feed, thenarrowing proceeds in the usual manner, the raising pickers 82 and 84being operative upon the medium and short butt needles, while the longbutt needles are raised out of action. When narrowing has beencompleted,- the cam disc is again stepped around. The only effect ofthis is to bring a high portion of the cam I54 into engagement withfollower I52 to rock lever I 46 further outwardly and permit thelowering picker 88 to rise and become operative in the usual manner tolower the needles two at a time while the pickers 82 and 84 continue toraise them one at a time.

When the sole is completed the cam disc again advances restoring all ofthe elements to the po sitions occupied during the knitting of the highsplice, the main yarn or yarns being reintroduced so that the sutureneedle which last knit again begins knitting while the cylinder travelsin a counterclockwise direction. A suitable sole yarn replaces the heelyarn. The movements of the pattern chain continue from the stopping I8and 80.

position. Since the operation is the same as that above described duringthe formation of the high splice it need not be again repeated.

When the, sole is completed the cam disc again advances either one step,or, as shown, two steps, one being idle. All fingers I82 are raised outof action, so that withdrawal takes place on the medium butt sutureneedle following the long butt needles while the cylinder is travellingin a clockwise direction, while the finger I84 which carries the heelyarn is lowered into action to replace the sole yarn finger. Cams '62,64, G6 and 68 are withdrawn. Switch cam 90 is raised. The needlecylinder rotates. Accordingly, all of the needles knit at the sole feedto form the advanced toe 2'.

At this time both controls 254 and 260 become active to prevent needledeflection and remain so during the remainderof the formation of thestocking. The pattern chain continues to advance until it is arrested bythe action of pin 266 as fully described in the application referred toabove. Stopping of the chain will occur at sometime during the finishingof the stocking. The chain thus becomes ready to properly start thepattern in a subsequent stocking.

After the formation of the several courses forming the advanced toe, thedisc 30 again moves bringing the parts into position to perform thenarrowing and then the widening for the toe, the motion of theneedle'cylinder again becoming reciprocatory. The operations in bothnarrow-.

ing and widening resemble those occurring in the formation of the heeland are not, therefore, repeated.

Following the completion of the widening operation, rotary knitting isresumed, the parts being the same as in the formation of the advancedtoe. The several courses thus formed constitute the loopers rounds. Itmay be noted, in this connection, that the same yarn is generally usedfor the heel, advanced toe, toe, and loopers rounds.

After the loopers rounds are completed the yarn is withdrawn so that theloops are pressed off the needles, the cams are then withdrawn to effectlevelling, and the machine stops. The cycle is thus completed, and a newrib top may be transferred to the machine.

During the above cycle of operations various different yarns have beeninserted at both feeds. At the instep feed, for example, there is firstinserted the extended top yarn which is of comparatively heavy weightand then the main yarns which are of comparatively light weight. Similarchanges take place at the sole feed, the high splice and sole yarnsbeing generally lighter than the yarn or yarns constituting the heel,toe, etc.

Accordingly, in order to produce proper results,

it is necessary that the various cam adjustments heretofore described beused. As pointed out above, the cams at the sole feed are not axiallymovable during the cycle of operation, adjustment being effected at thispoint by axial movement of the needle cylinder. As the needle cylindermoves it carries with it the cams at the instep feed supported by themember III]. This, in turn, is adjustable through the medium of the camI32 as illustrated in Figs. 13, 14 and 15. Suitable cams on the maindisc 30 are provided to effect these'independent adjustments, at theproper times. The action of cam I32 might take place, for example, whenthe extended top yarn is introduced.

Besides the adjustments mentioned above, it is necessary to providemeans for balancing the "stitch when wear occurs upon the cams 62, 64,

Accordingly, as pointed out above, these cams are independentlyadjustable by means of washers. Of course, such adjustment need not beeffected during a cycle of the machine but is made when the machine isstationary It will be clear that numerous changes may be made in detailsof construction and also by the replacement of certainmechanism mynon-equivalent but analogous mechanism without departing from the spiritof the invention. For ex ample, as mentioned above, the arrangement forcarrying the pattern from the leg into the instep continuously withoutinterruption is not confined to a reverse plating mechanism, but it isobvious this same method can be applied to the control of other designforming means.

One modification of particular utility can be attained by the operationof the machine so that knitting occurs at both feeds during rotation.This may be accomplished by a rearrangement of the controlling cams sothat cam 18 as well as cam 80 is active and one of fingers I84 isoperative to present a yarn or yams to the needles at the sole feed. Bynow having the trick wheel split fabric operation of the type alreadydescribed but with only one trick wheel, 2 I2, active, the one splitportion formed at the instep feed 1 may be given an appearance identicalwith that of the circularly knit portion, assuming, of course, asuitable selection of yarns at the two feeds.

In the following claims, for simplicity of expression, the term instephas been used to apply to the entire front and top split portion of astocking; that is, it refers broadly to such portions of a stocking asare designated at either e or h, or both, in Fig. 3. Also wherereference is made to a common or same yarn it will be understood thatportions of yarn from the same presenting yarns to the needles at spacedfeeds,

cams associated with the feeds for actuating the needles and elementsduring relative rotary or reciprocatory movements, driving means foreffecting such rotary or reciprocatory movements, controlling devicesfor effecting, 'first, rotary movements while only one feed is active toproduceone portion of fabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movementswhile both feeds are active to produce a split portion of fabric havingtwo parts, and means for effecting manipulation 'of yarns at one-feed toproduce patterns during reciprocatory knitting, said last named meansincluding two pattern devices one of which. is effective duringreciprocation in one direction and the other of which is effectiveduring reciprocation in the other direction.

2. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds, cams associated withthe feeds for actuating the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, driving means for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for eifecting, first,rotary movements while only one feed is active to produce one portion offabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movements while both; feeds areactive to produce a split portion of fab'richaving two parts, and means.for effecting manipulation of yarns at that feed which is active duringrotation to produce patterns during both rotary and reciprocatoryknitting, said last named means including two pattern devices one ofwhich is effective during reciprocation in one direction and also duringrotation, and the other of which is effective during reciprocation inthe other direction.

3. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds, cams associated withthe feeds for actuating the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, driving means for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for effecting, first,rotary movements while only one feed is active to produce one portion offabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movements while both feeds areactive to produce a split portion of fabric having two parts, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarnsat that feed which is active duringrotation to produce patterns during both rotary and reciprocatoryknitting, said last named means including two pattern devices one ofwhich is effective during reciprocation in one direction and also duringrotation, and the other of which is effective during-reciprocation inthe other direction, and means for maintaining the last named deviceinoperative during rotation.

4. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds, cams associated withthe feeds for actuating the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, driving means for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for effecting, first,'rotary movements while only one feed is active to produce one portion offabric, and secondly, reciprocatory movements while both feeds areactive to produce a split portion of fabric having two parts. and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at that feed which is active duringrotation to produce patterns during both rotary and reciprocatoryknitting, said last named means including two pattern devices one ofwhich is effective during reciprocation in one direction and also duringrotation, and the other of which is eifective during reciprocation inthe other direction, and means for rendering both devices inoperative atpredetermined times.

5. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elements.cooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds, cams associated withthe feeds for actuating the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, driving means for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for effecting, first,rotary movements while only one feed is active to produce one portion offabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movements while both feeds areactive to produce a split portion of fabric having two parts, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at one feed to produce patternsduring reciprocatory knitting, said last named means including twointermittently stepped trick wheels one of which is effective duringreciprocation in one direction and the other of which is effectiveduring reciprocation in the other direction.

6. A knitting machine including a needle cylinder, a circular series ofneedles carried thereby, and two sets of knitting cams, said cylinderbeing axially adjustable, one of said sets of cams being axially fixed,and the other set of cams being axially movable during axial adjustmentof the cylinder.

7. A knitting machine including a needle cylinder, a circular series ofneedles carried thereby, and two sets of knitting cams, said cylinderbeing axially adjustable, one of said sets of cams being axially fixed,and the other set of cams being axially movable during axial adjustmentof the cylinder, the last named 'set of cams being adjustable relativelyto the cylinder.

8. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at a feed, means for imparting relativereciprocatory movements to the needles and feed, and devices foreffecting manipulation of yarns at said feed to produce patterns duringreciprocatory knitting, said devices including two pattern means one ofwhich is effective during reciprocation in one directionand the other ofwhich is effective during reciprocation in the other direction.

9. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at a feed, means for imparting relativereciprocatory movements to the needles and feed, and devices foreffecting manipulation of yarns at said feed to produce patterns duringreciprocatory knitting, said devices including one means effective tocontrol the formation of designs during reciprocation in one direction,a separate means effective to control the formation of designs duringreciprocation in the other direction, and means interrelating theoperations of the two controlling means whereby a predetermined designmay be formed extending through courses formed during reciprocation inboth directions.

10. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at a feed, means for imparting relativereciprocatory movements to the needles and feed, and devices foreffecting manipulation of yarns at said feed to produce patterns duringreciprocatory knitting, said devices including separate means arrangedto selectivefeed, one acting to effect patterning during reciprocationin one direction and the other acting to effect patterning duringreciprocation in the other direction, and means interrelating theoperations of said needle manipulating means whereby a predetermineddesign may be formed extending through courses formed duringreciprocation in both directions.

11. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forsimultaneously feeding a plurality of yarnsto the needles, patterncontrolled mechanism controlling the needles whereby, after they passbeyond the feeding means when moving relatively thereto in onedirection, their engagement with said yarns vary, and pattern controlledmechanism controlling the needles whereby, after they pass beyond thefeeding means when moving relatively thereto in the opposite direction,their engagement with said yarns vary, whereby the yarns are variouslyarranged in courses formed during reciprocatory knitting in bothdirections to form predetermined patterns.

12. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forsimultaneously feeding a plurality of yarns to the needles, patterncontrolled mechanism controlling the needles whereby, after they passbeyond the feeding means when moving relatively thereto in onedirection, their engagement with said yarns vary to produce selectivenormal plating and reverse plating, and pattern controlled mechanismcontrolling the needles whereby, after they pass beyond the feedingmeans when moving relatively thereto in the opposite direction, theirengagement with said yarns vary to produce selective normal plating andreverse plating, whereby the yarns are variously arranged in coursesformed during reciprocatory knitting in both directions to formpredetermined patterns.

13. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forsimultaneously feeding a plurality of yarns to the needles, patterncontrolled mechanism effecting varying manipulations of the yarnswhereby, as needles pass beyond the feeding means when moving relativelythereto in one direction, their engagement with said yarns vary, andpattern controlled mechanism effecting varying manipulations of theyarns whereby, as needles pass beyond the feeding means when movingrelatively thereto in the opposite direction, their engagement with saidyarns vary, whereby the yarns are variously arranged in courses formedduring reciprocatory knitting in both directions to form predeterminedpatterns.

14. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forsimultaneously feeding a plurality of yarns to the needles, patterncontrolled mechanism effecting varying manipulations of the yarnswhereby, as needles pass beyond the feeding means when moving relativelythereto in one direction, their engagement with said yarns vary toproduce selective normal plating and reverse plating, and patterncontrolled mechanism effecting varying manipulations of the yarnswhereby, as needles pass beyond the feeding means when 'movingrelatively thereto in the opposite direction. their engagement with saidyarns vary to produce selective normal plating and reverse plating,whereby the yarns are variously arranged 'in courses formed duringreciprocatory knitting in both directions to form predeterminedpatterns.

15. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at a feed, means for imparting relativereciprocatory movements to the needles and feed, and devices foreffecting manipulation of yarns at said feed to produce patterns duringreciprocatory knitting, said devices including elements located atdifferent positions, one of which elements is effective duringreciprocation in one direction and another of which is efiective duringreciprocation in the opposite direction to produce patterning, andpattern means for controlling said elements.

'16. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, a feed,elements cooperating with the needles at the feed to form stitches,means for imparting relative reciprocatory movements to the needles andfeed, and means individual to the needles effective during reciprocationin both directions to produce selective relative positioning 17. Aknitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds,

cams associated with the feeds'foractuating the needles and elementsduring relative rotary or reciprccatcry movements, driving means foreffecting such rotary or reciprocatory movements, controlling devicesfor effecting, first, rotary movements while only one feed is active toproduce one portion of fabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movementswhile both feeds are activeto produce a split portion of fabric havingtwo parts,

and means individual to the needles effective during reciprocation inboth directions to produce selective relative positioning of the needlesand. yarns where the needles may take yarns atone of said feeds toproduce definite geometrical patterns by selective plating duringreciprocatory knitting in both directions.

WILBUR L. HOUSEMAN.

